Newsletter

The goal of allergy testing is to identify the specific allergen(s) to which your pet has an allergy. Allergy testing is done either with a blood test (sometimes also called 'ELISA' or 'RAST testing') or with intradermal testing (sometimes also called 'skin testing'). Following the identification of the allergen(s), your pet usually begins a series of injections of a dilute solution of the allergens, with the idea of "desensitizing" his or her immune system to future allergen exposure. This is termed immunotherapy. The exact schedule of injections is tailored to each individual case, but often begins as a once a week injection. The injections are usually carried out over the course of several months to years, and most patients require the injections for life.

Intradermal Skin Testing on a Dog

Skin problems (particularly itching) and ear problems are two of the most common reasons why veterinarians see pets. Unlike humans who react to allergens with nasal symptoms, dogs react with skin conditions. These problems may range from poor coat texture or length, to itching and chewing, to hot spots and eventually self-mutilation. Allergies may also play a part in chronic ear infections. To make matters more difficult to diagnose and treat, thyroid disease may add to the problem as well.

Many times, severe skin itching and inflammation is caused by allergies to fleas, foods, or environmental substances. If we can determine exactly what your pet is allergic to, it will allow us to provide more effective treatment. For pollen and dust allergies, it allows for the possibility of treatment with "allergy shots" (also called immunotherapy or hypo sensitization), which help to decrease the immune system's exaggerated response to these substances. Knowing exactly what the allergies are may also allow you to avoid things to which your pet is very sensitive...for example, fleas.

There are basically two types of allergy tests performed by veterinarians. The goal of allergy testing is to identify specific substances that are causing the allergic reaction, so that avoidance (if possible) and / or desensitization through allergy shots may be attempted.

As mentioned previously, allergy testing is done either by blood testing or by intradermal skin testing. The intradermal test involves clipping the fur from the side of the animal's chest and injecting very small amounts of pollens (from trees, weeds, and grasses), molds, and insect extracts into the superficial layers of the skin. Often, the test is administered under a light sedative/analgesic so that the pet (dog, cat) feels no discomfort. If the animal is allergic, a 'hive' forms at the site of one or more injections. This type of testing is more traditional, more involved, and more expensive than blood testing, but has very few false positive reactions.

For the blood test, a small amount of blood is taken and sent to a special laboratory. Generally, the test results come back in about 3 weeks. This type of testing is newer and less expensive; however, interpretation is more difficult.

Although serum allergy testing can give meaningful results, intradermal skin testing is considered to be more accurate and is the preferred method of allergy testing.

If you have questions regarding your pet's skin problem(s), do not hesitate to call your veterinarian.

There is almost nothing more comforting than when a cat jumps on our lap and begins to purr. Ever since the Egyptians started worshiping the cat, philosophers, scientists and cat lovers worldwide have wondered why cats purr. When we hear and feel this purring, we assume that everything is just fine with the cat. But why do cats purr? And what produces this sound?

Purring is a mystery. No one can definitively say which mechanism in a cat creates the purr. Some feline experts believe purring is due to a vibrations caused by blood passing through a large vein in the cat's chest. Yet others who have studied purring think it's due to the vibration of the vocal cords when the animal inhales and exhales.

It appears as though purring is not just limited to domestic cats. Some wild cats, such as pumas and mountain lions, are able to purr. In general, most large cats that cannot roar are able to purr. The calls of the leopard vary and include a series of harsh coughs, throaty growls, and deep, purring sounds.

It turns out that cats have special wiring traveling from the brain to the muscles in the vocal cords. Nerve signals that pass through this wiring system cause vibrations of the vocal cords. While the nerves cause the vocal cords to vibrate, the air forced through them by the diaphragm causes the musical hum. Since breathing has both inspiratory and expiratory phases, cats can purr continuously. The problem with this theory, however, is that cats continue to purr even when the nerves to the area of the vocal cords have been injured or damaged.

It is commonly believed that cats purr when content. However, cats also purr when they are severely injured, frightened or giving birth. According to some veterinarians, the original function of the purr was to enable a kitten to communicate with his mother that things are going well. A kitten is able to purr by the second day of life, and although he can't meow and nurse at the same time, he can purr and nurse.

As the cat matures, the meaning of the purr changes. Some cats purr to indicate contentment or pleasure, but badly frightened cats and severely ill cats also purr. It is not uncommon for cats to purr when they are close to death. This final purring may indicate a state of anxiety or possibly euphoria. These states have also been elucidated in terminally ill people.

Since the purr has lasted through hundreds of generations of cats, there must be a survival mechanism behind its continued existence. Researchers believe that self-healing is the survival mechanism behind the purr. There is extensive documentation that suggests that low frequencies, at low intensity, are therapeutic. These frequencies can aid bone growth, fracture healing, pain relief, tendon and muscle strength and repair, joint mobility, the reduction of swelling, and the relief of dyspnea, or breathlessness.

Animal behaviorists believe that when cats purr under stressful circumstances, they are reassuring or comforting themselves, much as humans may sing to themselves or hum when they are nervous. Frightened cats may purr to communicate submissiveness or non-aggressive intentions. A feral cat may purr to signal that he is not planning to attack and other cats need not feel threatened. Older cats may purr when they play or approach other cats, signaling that they are friendly and want to come closer.

Grooming your dog accomplishes much more than just making your pet's coat look nice and shiny. It provides you with the opportunity to spend some "quality time" with your dog—combing, brushing, bathing and generally bonding with him (or her).

While grooming, you can check your dog closely for any problems. Move the fur aside and examine the skin closely for signs of fleas, ticks or skin irritations. Look for any unusual problems with the coat such as mats, tangles, dandruff, etc. Mats and tangles can be carefully removed while grooming.

Learn where your dog likes to be combed and brushed and where he or she doesn't. All dogs have sensitive areas that need to be groomed a little more gently and carefully than other areas. By paying special attention to these areas, your dog will be more comfortable while being groomed and most likely will not resist future grooming sessions.

Before jumping right into it, let your dog sniff the brush and comb. As you are grooming, talk to your pet in a reassuring tone. If the grooming procedure is made comfortable, he will enjoy the procedure and begin to look forward to regular grooming sessions.

Healthy Coat Care

Regular grooming is essential to your dog's health and well being. Regular combing and brushing keeps the coat clean and healthy. It stimulates the skin and allows the natural oils to circulate to the coat. It also allows you to carefully check for potential skin problems. Check areas for hair loss, inflammation, unusual tenderness and/or lumps and bumps. Constant scratching in a particular area may also be an indication of a problem. Check with your veterinarian about any unusual problems that you find.

Combing

Comb in the direction of hair growth. It's best to comb small sections of the coat at a time. Continue combing until the coat is tangle free. If the coat has a particularly stubborn knot or tangle, you may have to trim it off with scissors. (Make sure that a piece of skin is not trimmed off as well.) A de-matting comb or slicker rake can be used to remove mats. When using a combination comb, begin with the widely spaced teeth, then follow with the finer teeth.

Brushing

Begin brushing your pet at the head, working toward the tail and down the legs. Always brush in the direction of hair growth. Pay particular attention to the legs and flanks, and areas that easily mat. A pin brush can be used to fluff the coat by brushing against the directions of hair growth. Regular brushing is good for your pet as it helps distribute the natural oils from the skin, producing a healthy, shiny coat. Brushing several times a week is recommended for most dogs.

Puppies

Like children, puppies have short attention spans. They require some special attention when it come to grooming. Select a time when the puppy is less energetic. Begin with short grooming sessions - five minutes, maybe even less. Constantly talk to your puppy in a gentle, reassuring tone while grooming him. Your voice has a tendency to keep him calm. Be sure to check his ears, paws, teeth, and underside during the grooming procedure. The more you groom your puppy, the more accustomed he becomes. Eventually, you puppy will appreciate the attention and look forward to each grooming experience.

Frequency

It is important to establish and adhere to a regular schedule of grooming sessions. Schedule these at a convenient time for both you and your dog. A good time to do this is after the dog has been walked, while he is relieved and calm. Select a time when you are generally not interrupted and have ample time to do a proper job. Long-haired dogs should be groomed daily, while short-haired breeds may require grooming only twice a week. It won't take long to see what frequency your dog requires.

Nail Trimming

Regular nail trimming is important to your dog's health and well being. Never use ordinary scissors to trim your dog's nails. Use trimmers that are specially designed for dogs.

Nail trimming is a procedure that requires patience. The first attempt may only get you as far as touching the paws and looking at the nails. During subsequent attempts, you may get as far as trimming a few nails. Don't push your luck on the first few tries. Make sure that you reassure your pet frequently, and don't turn it into a battle.

Hold the dog's paw firmly, and cut off the tip of the nail with a single stroke. Be very careful to stop short of the quick, the blood vessel inside the nail. (Cutting into the quick is painful and very messy.) Trimming the nails right after bathing often makes the quick more visible. Applying baby oil to the nails serves the same purpose. Follow up by filing your dog's nails with a nail file.

Whether you are new to living with cats or a seasoned cat owner, our feline friends insist on presenting an air of mystery. Some of the following tips may be old hat, but others may help you provide an even better home for your cat.

General Tips

• When traveling with your cat, keep him in a carrier. Letting your cat wander free in your car can be dangerous for both of you.
• Feed your cat in a quiet area where he is unlikely to be disturbed. Cats often feel vulnerable while they're eating and appreciate the safety of peace and quiet.
• A timid cat will generally be more social if he is aware of a safe hiding place in every room. A covered cat bed or kitty tent placed in a quiet corner will help him spend less time under the bed and more time out and about.
• The aroma of catnip loses potency over time. To keep your kitty's catnip toys fresh, store them in a plastic container and take them out for a special treat two or three times a week.
• Cats are naturally nocturnal, so training them to sleep when you do may take time. Help your cat learn faster by having a lively, interactive play session right before you go to bed.
• Avoid scratched up furniture by putting double-sided tape on the corners of sofas and chairs. This helps deter your cat from using your furniture as a scratching post.
• Place a sheet of aluminum foil on the kitchen counter or any place you don't want your cat to go. Most cats hate walking on foil and your cat will soon learn which places are off limits.
• Be consistent with house rules right from the start. It makes things much more difficult if you let your kitten jump up on the kitchen table, but expect her to stay off when she grows up.
• Make sure to change your cat's water at least once a day. You don't like to drink water with hair and dust in it, and neither does your cat.
• Cats lose weight the same way we do: eating less and exercising more. Try to spend more time playing with your tubby tabby to help him lose unwanted pounds.
• If your cat is ignoring her scratching post, it may be too short. Cats like to be able to reach up above their heads and anchor their claws for a good stretch, as well as a good scratch.
• Always support your cat's hindquarters when you pick him up. Holding your cat with his paws on your shoulder and your hand under his rump is generally comfortable and safe for both of you.
• Many cats like to picked up and snuggled. Some only like it for a short time though. The instant your cat begins to fuss or struggle, put him down.

Health and Safety

• Cats can get colds, but they are often called upper respiratory bacterial or viral infections. If your cat is coughing, wheezing, or has persistent discharge from her eyes or nose, take her to the veterinarian for a check-up.
• Cats are tough and will often hide signs of illness. If your cat suddenly looks ill, she may have been sick for awhile. Take her to the veterinarian immediately.
• Christmas trees provide hours of fun for cats, but can also cause serious harm. Artificial trees with steel poles provide the safest Christmas tree for cat owners because cats are unable to sink their claws into the steel, making it hard for them to climb.
• House plants can sometimes be toxic. If your cat likes to chew on your plants, grow a pot of grass for him instead! "Cat Grass" kits are available at most pet supply stores.
• Sudden loss of appetite, sudden aggression, excessive thirst or urination, excessive licking, and sudden refusal to use the litter box can all be signs of illness. If you observe any of these symptoms in your cat, see your veterinarian immediately.
• Always check your washer and dryer before you turn them on. Some cats like the warmth and quiet of the dryer and may hop in for a nap.
• Never let your cat drink from the toilet bowl. Even if you don't use "drop-in" cleaners, residue from toilet cleaning products can still make your cat sick. Make a habit of keeping the lid down.
• Clipping your cat's nails regularly is just as good for your cat as it is for your furniture. Excessively long nails can make it difficult for your cat to walk properly and may even grow back into the paw pads, causing discomfort and pain.
• If your cat suddenly starts urinating or defecating outside the litter box, call your veterinarian. Health problems often cause inappropriate elimination.
• A simple way to control hair balls is to brush your cat frequently. The more cat hair on the brush, the less your cat will swallow while grooming.
• Strings, yarn and ribbon may be fun for your cat to play with, but they can be extremely hazardous if swallowed. If left unattended, your cat could become seriously entangled as well. If you enjoy playing with your cat using yarn or string, make sure you have a safe and secure place to store it when you are done.
• Believe it or not, cats can get acne. If you see little pimples on your cat's chin, he may be reacting to plastic dishes. Switch any plastic dishes to stainless steel or ceramic and dab the acne daily with a cotton ball soaked with peroxide until the acne disappears.

Litter Box

• Never put your cat's food near his litter box. Cats like to eliminate far from where they eat. You may find that your cat will alert you to this situation by eliminating in places other than his litter box.
• If you keep your cat's litter box in the bathroom, the steam from showers can make the litter damp. Keep the box uncovered so the litter can dry out quickly.
• The number of litter boxes needed is directly related to the number of cats in the house. A general rule of thumb is to have one more litter box than the number of cats, if space permits. Some cats do not like to share litter boxes; this can cause problems in multiple cat households.
• Once you have found a combination your cats like, do not change it. Cats are creatures of habit and dislike change. Finding a location, litter type, box size is important. Once you find what your cats like, the right combination can keep your cats happy and healthy.

Pet owners and their canine and feline companions aren't the only ones who look forward to the warm weather. As summer approaches, pet owners must once again be on guard against fleas, the prolific parasites that can keep dogs, cats and humans alike scratching for months on end. In the northern United States, fleas are prevalent during the warm summer months, though the pesky parasites cause trouble year-round for pet owners in the south.

Keeping fleas off your pet and out of your home is about more than just stopping your pet's constant scratching. Aside from itchy, irritating bites, fleas can cause the skin disease flea allergy dermatitis in both cats and dogs, as well as miliary dermatitis in cats. Fleas can also transmit Dipylidium caninum, or double-pore tapeworm, a common tapeworm found in dogs and cats, as well as a number of other diseases.

Even if fleas aren't on your pet right now, they may be living in your home. There are four stages in a flea's life cycle: egg, larva, pupa and adult. It is only during the adult stage that the flea actually lives on an animal; during the other three stages, the flea lives in the surround environment. Immature fleas usually account for about 90 to 95 percent of the total flea population in a home. A good rule of thumb is that for every flea you find on your pet, there are about 100 more immature fleas living in the surrounding environment.

The average flea can live for anywhere between 12 days and 180 days, though the typical lifespan of a flea lasts three to six weeks. But even in that short amount of time, an adult female can lay more than 1,000 eggs, which means that even only one flea can result in big problems.

How can you tell if fleas have invaded your home and latched on to your pet? Scratching is often the first sign. During feeding, fleas inject saliva into the skin of the animal; this saliva contains proteins that cause allergic skin reactions, which leads to bouts of rubbing and scratching. Fleas are most commonly found on dogs and cats around the base of the tail and on the belly. If you suspect your pet has fleas but cannot see them, check for "flea dirt." This is the excrement of the flea and consists of a mix of feces and dried blood. To find flea dirt, have your pet lay on the ground and place a piece of white paper underneath him or her. Brush your pet and let the paper collect any dirt or debris. Next, add a few drops of water to the dirt on the paper; if dried blood is present, the water will take on a reddish color, indicating the presence of flea dirt.

If you are experiencing a heavy infestation of fleas, treating your pet is sometimes not enough. Home and yard treatments are also available to keep fleas at bay. Effective flea control measures include vacuuming several times each week and washing your pet's bedding once a week. For particularly bad infestations, try using an insect spray or fogger a few times. Outside your home, sprays can be used to hit fleas where they live. Fleas thrive in moist, shady areas, such as under bushes, mulch, porches and crawl spaces. Target these areas to reduce flea populations.

During the last several years, significant improvements have been made to flea control products. Oral and topical medications containing insect growth regulators (IGR) and insect development inhibitors (IDI) disrupt the flea's maturation process and stop infestations before they begin. These treatments are less toxic for pets and the environment and more effective in controlling fleas.

Topical treatments are more effective than past products because they remain on the surface of the pet's skin, where they are toxic only to fleas, rather than absorbed into the pet's bloodstream. There are many flea products and your veterinarian can recommend the product that is best-suited for your pet. Flea control products designed for dogs should not be used on cats and could result in serious illness or death. If you have multiple dogs, keep the dogs separated for an hour or two after applying each treatment in order to avoid oral ingestion.

What is rabies?
How do you contract rabies?
Why should I be worried about rabies in wildlife?
How can I tell if an animal has rabies?
What should I do if I am bitten by an animal?
What can I do to prevent rabies?

Q: What is Rabies?
A: Rabies is a virus that infects the central nervous system in mammals.   The disease is invariably fatal if left untreated; however, effective vaccines are available to protect people and pets.

Q: How do you contract rabies?
A: Rabies is passed along through contact with an infected animal’s saliva and is almost always transmitted when an infected animal bites an uninfected animal or person.  People usually get rabies from the bite of a rabid animal.  It is also possible, but quite rare, that people may get rabies if infectious material from a rabid animal, such as saliva, gets directly into their eyes, nose, mouth, or a wound.

Q: Why should I be worried about rabies in wildlife?
A: Rabies is a serious public health concern because if left untreated it is always fatal.  Costs associated with detection, prevention and control of rabies exceeds $300 million annually.  According to the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, about 90% of reported rabies cases in the United States are in wildlife. 

Q: How can I tell if an animal has rabies?
A: The test to determine if an animal has contracted the rabies virus requires them to be euthanized to test the cells of the brainstem.  Some of the visible signs of a rabid animal could include any of the following symptoms: aggressive behavior, attacking for no reason, lethargic, walking in a circle, confused, and drunk-like.  Wildlife should never be approached at any time.  If you have any questions about wildlife, please contact USDA’s Wildlife Services at 1-866-4-USDA-WS (1-866-487-3297).

Q: What should I do if I am bitten by an animal?
A: Wash the wounds thoroughly with soap and water as a first aid precaution.   Call your doctor or local health department.  If it is a domestic animal, get the name and address of the animal’s owner.  If it is a wild animal, contact your local health department, animal control, or professional wildlife trapper for assistance.  If the animal is dead, wear gloves or use a shovel to move the animal.  If testing is necessary, put the carcass into a heavy plastic bag and place it in a cold area away from people and other animals.  Clean the area where the animal was found with one part bleach to ten parts water.   Call your local health department for further instructions.

Q: What can I do to prevent rabies?
A: Avoid all contact with all wild animals.  Make sure your pets are vaccinated in accordance with state and local laws.   Report any suspicious acting animals to USDA’s Wildlife Services at 1-866-4-USDA-WS (1-866-487-3297).  Do not relocate wildlife.